Archive for the ‘Tips and Tricks’ Category

Today I had my first battery die.  This was one of the two batteries I got with my original order when I started vaping.  It was purchased in March 2011.  A lifespan of a year and a half isn’t too shabby!

Well, I have been meaning to pick up a true 5V straight USB 510 connection for a while, and having a dead eGo-T battery was all I needed to rig up one of my own.

Now, it may not be pretty.  It may not be fancy.  But with the 2.4ohm CE2 Clearomizers, 5V gives one heck of a hit.

eGo-T batteries are not impossible to disassemble, but I did have a few issues, and I wish I had remembered to take pictures as I went to show you what I’m talking about here.

The top of the battery (with the connection) pops off the battery tube relatively easy, and cutting the wires makes it quicker, just make sure to cut one at a time so you don’t short and overload the battery.  Don’t let the cut wires touch each other or the body of the tube.

After you have the top off, you have to forcibly remove the little circuit board.  I just used needle nose pliers and forced it.  It may have a retainer clip or something to make it easier, but I wasn’t worried about breaking it.

I popped out the bottom cap (where my new button is) and drilled a small hole in the side of the body for the wire to enter.

You run the black wire of the USB connection directly to the 510 connector, file off some of the chrome to show the brass underneath, then solder it on the inside of the outer edge, close to the bottom as you can so you don’t short to the hot wire.

You run the Red wire of the USB connection to your new switch, and then another red wire from the 2nd post of the switch to the center “pin” in the 510 connector.


Anyway, here’s a crude wiring diagram, and pictures of the finished unit.  Nothing fancy, but it works like a dream.


In this post, I will describe the steps of tweaking your fresh CE2 Cartomizer, so you will have the best experience possible.

First off, a few tips on CE2 Use:

You should keep the cartomizer upright when not in use, this will prevent any possible leakage. (I keep my unit in my shirt breast pocket, and it doesn’t leak at all)  If you allow it to rest horizontal, you may experience leaking from the tip.

If you taste a light burned flavor, or not enough vapor, invert the cartomizer and gently squeeze the tube to force a little extra juice into the coil wick.

First look:

Photo 1 – The nice box they come in.

Photo 2 – Single Cartomizer removed from box.

Photo 3 –  Removed from wrapping.

Photo 4 – This is a dental chisel / hoe that I use for manipulating my vaping gear, I highly recommend finding one for your kit!!

After removing the unit from it’s wrappings, you want to remove the silicone mouthpiece, as well as the anti-leak barrier. (Photos 5&6)

Next, you want to insert your tool into the opening and under the lip, and gently raise the cap about 1-2mm, be very gentile as this silicone cap can tear easily, and if you pull too hard, you can pull the cap out completely, and then have to re-seat it.  (Photo 7)

The point is to lift the cap just enough to leave a very small gap between the top of the wick braid and the cap, to promote air and fluid exchange.  If you look closely at the picture, you will see the small gap. (Photo 8)  If the gap is too large, you may get leakage.

The next step is to fill your syringe, and insert it into one of the small holes in the cap, then fill the unit until it is full. (Photos 9 & 10)

After you have filled the unit, you should drip a small drop or two of fluid directly on the wick and coil to saturate it, and help with the initial wicking. (Photo 11)

After you have replaced the anti-leak barrier and mouthpiece, turn the unit upside down and give a gentle squeeze of the tube, to push a small amount of fluid into the wick and coil, to finish the initial wicking process.

Screw the unit onto your battery of choice, and vape away!  If the unit is too dry or tastes burned, feel free to invert and squeeze the tube again to push more fluid into the coil.

I haven’t posted anything in a while, so I figured I’d give everyone a heads up on what’s been going on in my e-Cig world.

I’m slowly working towards completion on my Micro-Genesis box mod, I’ve gotten most of the hard work done, I just have to get the motivation to finish putting it together.  For those who haven’t followed this project, I am building a box-style genesis atomizer (see video in my older posts), for under $40.  I will make a detailed post on the unit when it’s finished 🙂

On another front, for the past 30 days, I have been running a “test” on my eGo-T.  I chose one juice I could handle to vape 24/7 for a month (Bluemist’s Crimson Cow), and decided to see how long I could use the same atomizer without cleaning it.  It is day 30 today, the atomizer is still running great, no burnt tastes at all, and it is still creating excellent vapor.  I decided to stick with one type of juice as to avoid cross contamination, or a bad mix.  The only thing I have done to the atomizer is blow it out whenever I flood it (every couple of days,  it will happen).  I should also note that this atomizer is 75 days old now.  I’m going to keep using this atomizer without cleaning until it either breaks, or develops a bad taste.

I’m thinking for my next test, I will run the same atomizer (if it lives), but using a darker juice.  I’ll see how long it holds on, and prove or disprove the theory on dark juices with the eGo-T.

Wow, I figured it out.  The easiest way I could think of to remove the needle plate from inside the eGo-T atomizer.

This allows you to adjust your wick, recover your “dropped” wick, as well as give your atomizer a deep cleaning a little easier.

  1. You need the proper tool.  I used a dental tool that I bent into an “L” shape thin enough to slide in under the needle plate on the edges.
  2. You need to slide the tool into the atomizer, keeping the tip against the wall until it is flush with the bottom of the needle plate.
  3. Rotate the tool so the tip goes underneath the needle plate.
  4. Slide the tool to the side, as far as you can, so you’re under the “corner” of the plate.
  5. Pull up gently, but using enough force to get it to start moving.
  6. Remove the tool, and move it to the other side of the atty
  7. Pull up gently, but firmly, and it should pop the needle plate right out!!!

Now, you can re-arrange your wick how you see fit (see the post with Vicki from Cignot’s video on wick manipulation for proper alignment).  You can also use this time to clean the atty, using whatever method you prefer.

To re-insert the needle plate:

  1. Align the plate with the top of the atomizer, and gently start it into the hole.
  2. Take an old atomizer cartridge, and place it over the needle.
  3. Push the cartridge into the atomizer, this will push the needle plate in
  4. Once you’re at the bottom, give it a little hard push, it should “snap” into place.
  5. Grab something heavy and give the cartridge a few light taps to make sure it’s fully seated.

All done!

Vicky from Cignot has released a wonderful video explaining wick manipulation for the eGo-T.  I would list this as a “must watch” for those new to the eGo-T platform.

Well, it was my fault. I didn’t follow my own advice, and it bit me in the rear!

I was vaping a dark tobacco flavored juice.   Big mistake!   The atty was getting kinda gunked up, and the pull was getting VERY hard.  After one of my standard 20-oz Bottle cleaning sessions, I was left with a bad burnt taste.   Horrible burnt taste, absolutely terrible.   I was truly afraid I wouldn’t be able to get rid of it.

First, I’m not exactly sure of the science behind the dark juices causing problems.  I’m not sure if it leaves behind gunk that isn’t water or alcohol soluble, or what, it seemed that it was whatever the water-cleaning method left behind that was burning, but the taste just wouldn’t go away.

Until I figured out the “combo”.

First, I did another bottle cleaning, then I gave it a 20 minute Isopropyl alcohol soak.   Next, I played with it in the alcohol, filling the atty up to the top, and letting it run out the bottom end.  I did that for about 10 minutes.   I let it dry overnight.

Once I could no longer smell the alcohol, I put it on a battery and started to dry burn it.   I would hold the button for five seconds, let go of the button, and then put my mouth down by the button (over the air holes) and blew.  Smoke came out the top. I did this about 10-15 times (waiting at least 10 seconds between to let the atty cool down).   When I noticed that no more smoke was coming out after my blowing through it, I put on the tank, primed it (puffing without touching the button) until about 1/2 of the tank (0.5ml) was in the atty.

Hit the button, and I could taste just a touch of the burnt flavor.   After the 6th or 7th vape, I could no longer taste the burnt flavor.

I let it sit for an hour (mostly to let my taste buds “zero out”), and tried it again, No burnt taste!

Hopefully you will find this helpful!


2/25/11 After the fact edit:

I forgot to include the fact that any time you dry burn your atomizer, you run the risk of damage, as well as the fact that a dry burn usually shortens the life span of your device.  In my case, I would much rather deal with a slightly shorter lifespan than to deal with a nasty burned taste.

I love the eGo-T.  It was like going from a Chevy to a Mercedes when I upgraded.

The learning curve took me a little while, hours spent researching on the best way to keep it running.

So, you’ve finally got yours in the mail, I’ll walk you through setting it up for your first vape!

Step 1:  Charge the batteries.  My eGo-T’s batteries were close to fully charged when I received them, yours probably will be too.  They will most likely be fully charged in under an hour.

Step 2: Prep the atomizer.  You’ll want to blow out the primer fluid that it ships with, otherwise you’ll have a nasty tasting vape for the first few hours.  To properly blow them out, use some tissue or paper towels, pushed against the atomizer end (The end without the screw connection) and blow through the battery end.  Hard.  You’ll want to blow through it for about a minute (obviously taking breaks and taking breaths).  When you no longer see any fluid dripping out and staining the paper, you’re good to go.

Take a piece of tissue and roll it up so it’s pointy, and stick it in the atomizer end, and sop up any fluid left on the metal plate, and inside the walls.

Step 3:  Filling the tank.  There are three methods I know of for doing this, and I’ll cover all 3.

Method 1: Pop the cap off the bottom using your fingernail.  Drip the fluid inside until you’re about 1/4″ from the top.  Pop the cap back on.

Method 2: Push the tank into the atomizer to puncture the seal.  Remove the tank, then use a syringe to fill the tank, once again, stop when your’e about 1/4″ from the top.

Method 3: Push the tank into the atomizer to puncture the seal.  Remove the tank, then push your bottle’s tip into the hole, and fill the tank (this can be messy with some bottles), and once again, stop when you’re about 1/4″ from the top.

You want to stop 1/4″ from the top because it doesn’t seem to wick the juice properly if you fill it all the way up.  It seems to need a little air space to wick properly.

Step 4:  Putting the tank onto the atomizer.   Push the tank into the atomizer until it is fully seated, there should be NO gap between the edge of the atty, and the edge of the tank.  Spin the tank around at least 1 time to ensure proper wicking.  Orientation doesn’t really seem to matter, but some people have said that if you don’t align the sides of the tank with the open sides of the atomizer, you will get reduced airflow.  This has not been my experience, but your mileage may vary.

Step 5:  Attach the atomizer to the battery.

Step 6: Make sure your battery is turned on.  The eGo-T batteries have a “5 click” safety system.  To turn the battery on or off, you must click the button 5 times within 2 seconds.  This can prevent “pocket vaping”

Step 7:  Prime the atomizer.  Without pressing the button, take 3-4 really hard puffs on the atty.  This will start the wicking process, and get the juice flowing to the atomizer.  You should lightly taste the flavor of the juice when you’re on your final puff.  If you don’t, try taking 1-2 more primer puffs, but be careful, you don’t want to flood it!

Step 8: Push the button and vape.  I prefer to hit the button about a second or so before I put it in my mouth, but if you wait too long, you can dry it out, it takes a little practice to get the timing right!   With the eGo-T it is best to take very long, slow puffs.  For me, it’s about 4-5 seconds for a mouthful of vapor.  To get the best “hit” off of it, I inhale it shallowly, and blow it out slowly through the nose.  If you want a very strong “hit”, you can try the French inhale.  Get a mouthful of vapor, and slowly push it out of your mouth with your tongue, while inhaling slowly with your nose… It will make a reverse “waterfall” of vapor into your nostrils, and will give you the best nicotine absorption possible.   Be warned, this can burn a little the first time you do it 🙂  Exhale slowly through the nose as well.

Here are my eGo-T tips and tricks:
1 – Never use a juice with more than 30% VG – More than 30%VG can cause wicking problems, and you’ll be running your atty dry.

2 – Stay away from Darker juices.  They’ll work, but you’ll have to clean your atty every other day, as they tend to gunk up the atomizer, and cause airflow issues.

3 – Clean your atty at LEAST once a week, I prefer the soda bottle method –

4 – Make sure your wick is in the right position.  If your first 3-4 hard primer puffs (without pressing the button) don’t give you a nice vape, use a paperclip to push the wick down inside the needle about 1mm, do this very gently or you can damage your atty.

5 – Make sure your tank is FULLY seated, there should be NO gap between the cone and edge of the tank.6 – After inserting the tank, rotate the tank inside the atty at least 45 degrees, some people spin it around a few times.  The final orientation of the tank in the atomizer doesn’t really matter.

On a side note, you should also check to see if you have the v1 or v2 atomizer.  The v1 had a blunt needle inside, and is slightly thinner than the v2.  The v2 has the pointed needle and is thicker, for better wicking.  V1 atomizers have been known to have issues.